After 5 days I found a place with a reasonable internet connection.
Sun 17.1.2016
The rain stopped and sun was coming out in Chaitén and a nice road partially gravels and partially paved with nice canyons, cliffy walls and much green is bringing me to La Junta. i
I enjoy the Termas Ventisquero Puyuhuapi
before I drive to the glacier Ventisquero Colgate. As I have seen the entrance oft he national park camping I wanted to return, but
… I felt down. Even though I unpacked the bike except the left case I was not able to lift it up on my own. But help comes soon and then it was easy. The glacier is enormous and a windy bridge brings you to the lake where you finally can see it very well.
On the campsite I met surprisingly again Anna and Julian, which I met first on Chiloé.
Mon 18.1.2016
Due to my late arrival to the national park, I saved the fee of $5.000. My turn to Puerto Aysén is very challenging, because steep serpentines and mud make my life even harder than expected. I arrive in Puerto Aysén, get finally some money and lunch and drive further tio Puerto Chacabuco where I got really drepressed. The next boat to glacier San Rafael will be in 5 days and should cost US$280,-. So, I quit this plan, went to the next supermarket and drove back. The temperature is now 24°C and clouds have forms I haven’t seen before.
Nice “tourist roads” bring me finally to a nice camping place where Ignazio (Nacho) is playing guitar in the evening and together with people from Switzerland, Holland, USA, Ireland and Germany we all have lots of fun.
Tue 19.1.2016
My first little damage (plastic!) needs to be repaired. And: Nacho arranged a trip to the glacier from another starting point for Thursday! Yeah!
Wed 20.1.2016
Because the road between Cerro Castillo and Puerto Río Tranquilo is closed between 2p.m. and 6.pm. I have plenty of time and leave the campsite at 2p.m. 1 ½ hours too early I arrive in Cerro Castillo and guess what: I meet again Anna and Julian. And the a man with a hat comes straight to me. He saw my plate from Munich, because he is from Munich, too. And his name is as well Thomas. And: he is the owner of the hostel where I want to stay the next night half way down from Tranquilo to Bahía Exploradores. The next 150km will be a tough ride. And I have no time to stop. Otherwise I have to “eat the dust” from the others. Katrin, Thomas` wife served a noodle salad and I went to bed early.
Thu 21.1.2016
Another 33km on a gravel road. At 9 a.m. I’m at the point from where the tour starts. First we have to cross a river by boat
then another 10km by little bus before I could get on a boat together with a nice Chilean family. I got a seat even I wasn’t on the list. Not sure what went wrong with Nacho’s email. But now I’m on the boat and we are passing Lagunas and fjords. After two hours we can see the full glacier.
It is up to 70m high and more than 2km wide. The closer we come the more we can hear the breaks and cracks of it. Beautiful! And then we get the obligatory whiskey “in” the rocks.
Fri 22.1.2016
The weather is foggy and cloudy and I’m still so happy about the weather we had yesterday. I drive back to Puerto Murta and further
to Puerto Sanchez. I want to see the Catedral Mármol and found Luis who offered me a turn immediately. Unfortunately a misunderstanding. He cannot bring me to the cathedral and he can only show me the coats line with the enormous erosions. And now I understand why he was so fast and willing to do the trip. Because it is the same price for one or for 6 persons: $30.000. Lesson learned. Finally he gave me a relief of $5.000. On my way to Pto Sanchez I saw a gorgeous place to stay for the night. I passed it and wanted to return. And… again I felt down. And this time my windshield broke a little bit and is deformed now. But the place was idyllic
and after I had built my tent the owner came. I asked him if I could stay here for the night. “Yes, of course, but no open fire. And the water from the little creek behind you is absolutely clean”.
Sat 23.1.2016
Breakfast in the sun but all over sudden it begins to sprinkle. I pack all my stuff as fast as I can (which takes a while). When I started it was at least drizzle raining. I drove back to Tranquilo and stopped at the first sign for tours to the Catedral Mármol and the Capella Mármol. 15 min later I was in a boat to go for it.
And just for $8.000. As the rain got heavier I stayed for lunch. Later the sun came out and it was a nice trip to Cochrane. Here it’s not easy to get a bed in high season and after some attempts I got one in Hostel Sur Austral.